Kiin Kiin – a culinary Luna park lit by a Michelin star

Translated from Hebrew by David Califa


Dawn breaks on the flat city. For some reason whenever I'm abroad I wake up early. My inner clock wakes me up to see how the foreign city does it itself. From the hotel window I see the Tivoli Gardens and its Ferris wheel that drew many screams of joy last night, standing still, like waiting to the first scream of the day


I look at the merry go rounds, the toy stands and the swings, and suddenly understand that last night I myself was in a Luna park. A private Luna park of someone whose mother never forbid him to play with food, or actually did forbid him, and he, like every creative, wise and curious kid, did just the opposite


Chef Henrik Yde Andersen has a little far-eastern food empire in Denmark. But before he grew his restaurants and business he grew wings. Muhammad Ali once said that a man without imagination is a man with no wings, and Henrik is a beautiful butterfly with many colorful wings. He floats between the Nordic fairy tales of his childhood to the very same little thai kitchen, to where an old lady cook let him in and showed him a crystal
ball of flavors, opening for him a window to his future



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All good stories start by accident, so did this first encounter between Henrik Yde and the Thai cuisine, in a layover in Bangkok on the way home from Australia. And ever since Yde lives his life between two cities. In each he has a popular, cheeky and full of humor restaurant. Under the light of a Michelin star he creates a splendid circus of flavors. A circus that brings a smile to your face and a memory that you didn't remember, because the memory isn't yours. You realize that you are an extra in Henrik's crazy and tasty dream

When circus tent open doors every evening you are led to a beautiful salon with comfortable sofas and low table to meet Henrik Yde's interpretation to Thai street food. Under big golden masks we received a succession of samples of Henrik's memories from the street of Bangkok

photo by : Heather Cowper

A lotus root fried and toasted, little delicate cookies of cashew meringue, we drank an incredible shot of rice soup that came on a tray that was a real and live little rice paddy. after, or maybe before, we had a skewer of chicken satay, and a sausage from Chiang Mai, a parfait od peanut butter and chicken and egg pudding. And that wasn't all, there was also a cone of ginger, apple and lemongrass and an Oysters & Pearls. All was small and fast, like what you see from the back seat of a Tuk Tuk in a hot Bangkok night

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After this wild ride we were shown to our table in the main dining room upstairs. Here too, like downstairs, the meal is built from many small creative dishes full of humor and flavor. I remind you that we are at Henrik's playing ground and there are no rules here. the only rule I'd advise you to take on is to come open minded for the ride, ready for joy and laughter, and let the skilled crew take you around the Luna park.

The magic starts with a bag of peanuts that virtually disappears when you pop it into your mouth

peanuts

Then you get to play with a tray full of pebbles on which we found mussels and and oysters

oysters

When was the last time you played Doctor? A clear, piping hot and spicy hot essence of Tom Yam soup is poured to our bowls, and there's a fat syringe on the side. We press the white stuff from the syringe into the soup to create our own noodle. In front of us we spot a couple in their first date, they are playing and laughing. suddenly they have a lot to talk about and they look ready to meet the families

Tom-yumtomyum

Do you like sugar candy? Green cucumber and fish salad with a sweet top hat arrives. the couple in front of us is so happy now, they kiss each other and jump in their seats while the waiter pours the salad dressing through the hat and melts it away. We behave like children too, we notice, waving our hands and giggle. It's the best show in town – sugar candy that melts into itself

sugar-candy

In the next dish Henrik deconstructs and re-constructs Pad Thai. We received our noodles made of shrimp in a little pool of tamarind and lemongrass

"I am so happy, you know" I say to the rainmaker. I hold his hand and we both climb the merry go round in Henrik's mind, with its golden horses and cheerful music, and together we gallop towards the Thai-Danish sunset

pad-thai

After the sunset we enter a cloud and wave to the rainbow. Lobster with frozen red curry and lychee is placed in front of us going up in cold smoke. It's delightful, it's happy, it's crazy, it's childish and very smart at the same
time

lobster

Coconut soup with mushrooms and quail is playing games with us, coming in two forms – a soup version and a deconstructed version. It's festival time

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In front of the last dish, we are already a bit exhausted. Beef with oyster sauce, bone marrow and sweet corn puree. We breath hard and ask to have our deserts in the comfort of the lounge downstairs. After all, it's tiring to run like that through all these attractions

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"Imagine you are on a beach" we hear voices coming out of Henrik's feverish mind. And we let him take us on his back flapping his colorful butterfly wings, and here we are, on a turquoise beach in Thailand. From one hand we drink pineapple and coconut shake in in the other we have a slightly salty banana and coconut ice cream. Our brain is busy trying to guess Henrik's trick and prank. the secret is finding it, because if you do, a big smile will find you

desert1

Kiin Kiin

Guldbergsgade 21, 2200 København, Denmark

55 75 35 35 45+

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